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Keeping Our Homes Green – Roofing Options

Thu, 28 Apr 2011 16:04:53 +0000

By Herbert Norton Looking for a way to reduce your energy costs? If you consult your local energy company, you will likely receive a brochure explaining how to wrap your pipes, put a blanket around your hot water heater, plugging cracks and holes through which drafts can flow, and adding reflective coatings to your windows. No harm in any of that, and it’s a good start. But for homeowners, there is a better place to start – start at the top, with your roof. Why start with the roof? For the same reason that your mother tells you to wear a hat outside in snowy weather – just as most of your body heat is lost through your head, most of your home’s heat is lost through the roof. Heat rises. Likewise, your roof is the part of your home that is most exposed to the sun, so the question of whether your home will absorb the sun’s heat or reflect it back into the atmosphere is decided right there – on the roof. Homeowners don’t like to mess with their roofs, and for good reason – roof work can be expensive. But there are a range of options, and if you are considering an ecofriendly option such as installing solar panels, you may qualify for state or federal tax subsidies that will help to defray the cost. (To find out what subsidies exist in your area, check the Interstate Renewable Energy Council’s Database of State Incentives for Renewables & Efficiency, DSIRE , or try this calculator ). If you are considering making your roof a part of your home’s energy efficiency plan, you will need to begin by answering the following questions: What material do you want to use for your roof? What color should your roof be? Do you want to add solar panels or solar shingles to your roof in order to capture solar energy for electricity or to provide heat for water? Materials These days, homeowners have many roofing materials to choose from. Most Americans (about 75 percent) go for cheap asphalt shingles – but cheap is the best that can be said of asphalt as a roofing material. It doesn’t insulate well, it is generally not recyclable at the end of its life, and its life is not long. On the other end of the economic spectrum, affluent homeowners will often choose wood shingles, such as cedar shakes, or slate. These options are all natural, insulate well, and are expensive. But cedar often comes from old-growth forests and slate is a non-renewable resource. Moreover, wood shingles will swell and shrink over time, producing cracks and resulting in moisture damage. Clay tiles are more durable and are made from a renewable, sustainable material, but they are so expensive that most homeowners can only manage to use them as accent materials along the edges of roofs. Somewhere in the middle, you have metal roofs. Metal roofs insulate well, they have high solar reflectance (meaning they stay cooler in the summer), they last a long time, and they are frequently made from recycled metals (and can be recycled themselves at the end of their lives). But they can be somewhat expensive. Nowadays, there is another option: recycled roofing materials. Believe it or not, you can now make your roof from recycled plastic, carpet, or tires. You can also opt for reclaimed or sustainably grown wood. Make Your Electric Meter Spin Backward If you want to generate electric power on your roof, or at least collect enough heat to warm up water, you may want to start with a basic metal roof. A standing-seam metal roof can work well as a base for thin-film photovoltaic panels. You’ll be following in reputable footsteps – President Barack Obama is adding solar panels to the White House roof this year, as is Texas Governor Rick Perry. Solar panels can be expensive – most solar panel systems cost at least $2,000 to $3,000 to install, and many cost more, depending on the system and the particular circumstances at your home. Solar panel systems pay for themselves within a few years, but that doesn’t help when you are trying to scrape together the money for the installation. There is also another solar roofing option – solar shingles. Solar shingles may be an ideal solution if by chance you have a roof that is already shingled, but is losing shingles in (preferably) a south-facing location where you can free up 300 to 400 feet of roof space. If you need to replace shingles anyway, you may as well replace the old shingles with matching solar shingles (they are designed to blend in with the asphalt shingles that most American homes use). Like solar panels, solar shingles can be connected to your local energy grid, so that if you produce excess electricity, it can go back into the system and your electric company can reimburse you for it. By absorbing heat from the sun, solar shingles can also reduce the amount of heat that your home absorbs, so you may find that you do not need to run an air conditioner as much in the summer. Don’t expect to go entirely off-grid with solar shingles – shingles do not store solar energy (unless you have also added batteries to hold stored energy, but adding batteries can add as much as $10,000 to your shingle installation costs), so you will need your regular electric grid at night. Homeowners who choose this option find that the solar shingles pay for themselves in about 8 to 10 years, while they last for 20-40 years (depending on climate and maintenance). Solar panels and shingles not only pay for themselves over time by allowing you to sell power back to your electric company, but they add to the value of your home. According to a recent study by Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory, 72,000 California homeowners who added solar panels to their roofs saw their home values rise by an average of $17,000 when they put their homes on the market. Consequently, you may be able to roll the cost of installation over into your mortgage. Caution Unless you are a roofing contractor yourself or have equivalent experience, don’t try to install your own roof. Find a contractor who is experienced in the kind of roof that you plan to put in place. If you are adding solar panels or solar shingles, you will also need an electrician. Be aware, as well, that if you are replacing a roof that was originally installed between 1940 and 1975, you may need to hire someone to do asbestos remediation. Finally, don’t forget to check your local building codes (or better yet, work with a contractor who is intimately familiar with them). Be sure, as well, to check with your homeowner’s insurance company to find out if the change in roofing materials will affect your insurance premiums. Do your homework and use common sense. If you can find a contractor and a roofing system that you are happy with, chances are that you will be very pleased with the results. About the Author Herbert Norton is a roofing contractor that started a website on roofing in the winter months to help educate his clients. Roofery.com has extensive information on many different types of roofing shingles, such as slate, tile, solar and metal shingles , to help consumers make an educated decision. Recently Herbert has been researching the “greening” of asphalt shingles , which are not normally eco-friendly.

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Keeping Our Homes Green – Roofing Options

Bosch CLPK40-120 Max 4-Tool Litheon Combo Kit

Wed, 16 Sep 2009 05:00:01 +0000

Bosch Max 4-Tool Litheon Combo Kit Bosch makes some great tools and the Bosch CLPK40-120 12-Volt Max 4-Tool Litheon Combo Kit is no exception. 12-Volt Combo kits have been very popular for their affordable pricing and versatility. Bosch CLPK40-120 Combo Kit Features The Bosch CLPK40-120 Combo Kit features several tools at a great price including: PS10B 12-Volt max I-driver features a 90-Degree articulating head and at 3.5-Inch (90 mm), its head length is the shortest articulating head available. The I-driver also features 7+1 electronic clutch to enable precision driving PS20B12-Volt Max pocket driver has an ultra compact design and at almost half the size of a 12-Volt compact drill/driver, it is handy and easy to carry in a tool belt, pocket or bucket PS40B 12-Volt max litheon impactor fastening driver features the Bosch-designed hammer and anvil system which produces 800-Inch-Pound of max torque and delivers 1,800 RPM/3000 BPM FL10 12-Volt max litheon flashlight has a 5-position pivoting head and 6+ hours of continuous runtime The compact drills and drivers are very popular right now. In fact, our crews use them on every job for a variety of tasks. I happen to like this combo kit because it comes with a nice carrying case and you can interchange the batteries between tools. I also happen to be a huge fan of Bosch tools and their superior quality and functionality. Where To Buy Bosch CLPK40-120 Combo Kit If you’d like to buy the Bosch CLPK40-120 12-Volt Max 4-Tool Litheon Combo Kit then I recommend you check out Amazon . They are selling it for $271.65 with FREE shipping! Subscribers to Home Construction Improvement can download two FREE Spreadsheets: Stair Calculator Fuel BTU Calculator Bosch CLPK40-120 Max 4-Tool Litheon Combo Kit Related posts: Milwaukee 12-Volt Li-ion Sub-Compact Driver Kit Great Cordless Drill Combo Kit for Finish Work Makita LCT300W 18V Compact Lithium-Ion 3PC Cordless Combo

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Bosch CLPK40-120 Max 4-Tool Litheon Combo Kit

Porter-Cable 352VS 3?x21? Variable Speed Belt Sander Review

Tue, 15 Sep 2009 20:12:01 +0000

Porter-Cable 352VS Belt Sander Review Belt sanders are great for medium to heavy duty parallel grain sanding. Our crew at work uses the Porter-Cable 352VS 8 Amp 3-Inch-by-21-Inch Variable Speed Belt Sander for all of our serious sanding projects like decks, flooring, doors and cabinetry. 352VS Belt Sander Features According to the manufacturer the 352VS offers the following: Variable-speed dial 850-1,300 SFPM Belt & gear drive for professional durability Designed for flush sanding up to vertical surfaces Dust bag swivels 360? Fingertip belt-tracking knob Quick-release belt-change lever Motor is located over platen for maximum performance and perfect balance 8 Amp motor, AC only Product Review Thoughts We’ve used this belt sander for all kinds of applications from sanding floors to doors and countertops. More recently I used it to sand a hardwood (Cambara) deck in preparation for new deck sealer. Power The Porter-Cable 352VS has plenty of power for most any project. We consistently use this belt sander on both residential and commercial building projects with no problems. Quality Construction Porter-Cable is known for it’s quality construction and this power tool is no different. The belt sanders housing is made from all metal for durability and strength. Because of that the sander is quite heavy. I think that’s a definite benefit for belt sanders because the weight means less effort on the operators part. This tool will certainly hold up to serious day to day abuse by the roughest of crews. Ease of Operation The Porter-Cable 352VS is very easy to operate. Changing belts is very straight forward with the side mounted lever. The feature that I found easiest to use was the belt alignment feature. It was very easy to center the belt and keep it centered. Overall Impression / Recommendation I definitely recommend the Porter-Cable 352VS 8 Amp 3-Inch-by-21-Inch Variable Speed Belt Sander for anyone looking for a good quality belt sander. This tool is built to last and has plenty of power for the medium and heavy duty use. Where To Buy Porter-Cable 352VS Belt Sander If you’d like to buy the Porter-Cable 352VS 8 Amp 3-Inch-by-21-Inch Variable Speed Belt Sander then I recommend you check out the following link: Porter-Cable 352VS 8 Amp 3-Inch-by-21-Inch Variable Speed Belt Sander Where you can buy it for $201.52 from Amazon. Subscribers to Home Construction Improvement can download two FREE Spreadsheets: Stair Calculator Fuel BTU Calculator Porter-Cable 352VS 3″x21″ Variable Speed Belt Sander Review Related posts: Factory-Reconditioned DeWalt Belt Sander Porter-Cable 23-Gauge Pin Nailer Zip Sander Products Review

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Porter-Cable 352VS 3?x21? Variable Speed Belt Sander Review

Front-Load vs Top-Load Washers

Tue, 15 Sep 2009 05:00:45 +0000

Front Vs Top Load Washer Debate It wasn’t all that many years ago when the only place you saw front-load washers was the laundromat. Today front-load washers are showing up at every store and many homes. This has caused quite the debate among home owners and sales associates about which is better? Front-Load or Top-Load? I think the debate is about over these days now that the benefits of energy savings and performance are known. Almost every front-load washer on the market today qualifies for the Energy Star certification. With an emphasis on the environment and energy savings these new front-load washers are making a big impact. Big Energy Savings By far the biggest advantage to buying a front-loading washing machine is the big energy savings. According to Energy Star the average American family does over 400 loads of laundry each year. Traditional top-load washers use as much as 40 gallons per load while newer front-load washers only use 20 to 25 gallons per load. This results in a 40% or more savings in water use. The result is a savings of over 8,000 gallons of water yearly. Front-load washers spin at a much higher speed than the older top-loading machines. Today’s front-load washers can spin as fast as 1,500 rpm compared to 600 rpm or less with the older top-loading machines which removes significantly more water during the spin cycle. As a result the energy (electricity or gas) needed to dry clothes is drastically reduced. Estimates from different sources estimate the reduced energy use by as much as 56%. Less Clothing Abuse Another benefit to front-load washers is the lack of an agitator. Older top-loading washers have an agitator that rubs, pulls and stretches clothing in order to clean it. Front-load washers have no agitator and which results in less abuse (damage) to your clothing. The bottom line is your clothing will last longer and look nicer. Size Matters Front-load washers can washer larger loads of clothing because there is no agitator. Front-load machines are much better for washing large items like blankets, comforters, jackets and other unusual items. Front-load washers are also built today so you can stack them on top of the dryer. This results in a significant space savings if your home needs the extra floor space. Cost Until recently the front-loading washing machines were significantly more expensive than the older top loading models. However, now that the demand for front-load machines has increased so much the gap between them is shrinking. In fact, we just purchased our first front-load washer and dryer set because the prices have come down so much. Today it’s not hard to find a complete set for under $1,500 where the used to cost $2,000 and up. The difference in price will certainly pay off in a short time period with the energy and water savings. Subscribers to Home Construction Improvement can download two FREE Spreadsheets: Stair Calculator Fuel BTU Calculator Front-Load vs Top-Load Washers Related posts: Household Water Conservation Buying A Pressure Washer Cleaning Decks With Power Washers

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Front-Load vs Top-Load Washers

WeatherShield Premium Wood Products

Mon, 14 Sep 2009 05:00:24 +0000

WeatherShield – The Smarter Treated Wood Today I noticed a new product at The Home Depot , WeatherShield Premium Pressure-Treated Decking . What caught my eye was the warranty for this new type of pressure treated wood. WeatherShield offers a limited lifetime warranty which is guranteed protection against rot, decay and termite damage. If these claims are accurate this is a huge development within the treated lumber market. The original versions of pressure treated lumber have been good, but 20 years is really about the maximum you can expect to see before problems arise. The manufacturer boasts the following: Enhanced Durability – Pretreated with a wood stabilizer to reduce splitting, cracking, warping and swelling. Improved Weather Protection – Factory applied water repellent requires no additional sealing for one full year. New Lighter Color – Cleaner and brighter for a more natural appearance and improved stainability. Building Code Compliant – Less corrosive to screws, nails, hardware and aluminum products. SCS Certified – Environmentally Preferred Treated Wood Products Currently this version of the product is being sold by The Home Depot exclusively. I have a feeling we’ll be seeing more of this product on the market very soon. Have you used it yet? I’d love to hear some feedback on it. Subscribers to Home Construction Improvement can download two FREE Spreadsheets: Stair Calculator Fuel BTU Calculator WeatherShield Premium Wood Products Related posts: CABOT Decking Stains Staining Pressure Treated Deck Framing Farmer’s Porch Skirt Finished

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Lawn Core Aeration

Sun, 13 Sep 2009 05:00:00 +0000

What is Lawn Aeration? Aerating a lawn is a simple process of removing small cores of soil and grass to allow air, water and nutrients into the root zone. Another way of aerating a lawn is to use a spike aerator that punches spikes into the lawn to make small holes. However, this method isn’t considered as effective as core aerating. What are the Benefits of Aerating Your Lawn? The biggest benefit to aerating your lawn is allow sufficient oxygen to reach the grass roots. Heavy soil compaction severely reduces the pore space around grass roots which limits the amount of oxygen in that region. Roots require oxygen to grow and absorb water and nutrients. Core aeration benefits lawns by: Increasing the activity of soil microorganisms that decompose thatch Enhancing water infiltration from rainfall and irrigation Improving root growth Increasing water, oxygen and nutrient movement in the root zone Helping to prevent run off of fertilizers and pesticides How do you determine if your lawn needs aeration? Most lawns can benefit from lawn aeration. However, the biggest reasons to aerate are heavily used lawns, thatch layers greater than 1/2 inch and soils that are mostly clay. An easy way to test your soil is to peal back a section and check the depth of roots. If the roots are only a couple inches deep then your lawn could probably benefit from core aeration. When should you aerate? For cool season grasses like we have here in New Hampshire the best time to aerate is in late August or early September when the grass is coming out of the summer dormancy. The grass begins to grow at a rapid rate again and there is little competition from weeds. Lawns should be aerated when the soil is slightly moist, either a day after rainfall or irrigation. How do you aerate a lawn? The best way to core aerate a lawn is to rent a mechanical core aerator from a local rental shop. If you have a large lawn like mine you may want to consider buying a core aerator like the one I just purchased. You can buy the John Deere Tow Behind Plug Aerator over at Rungreen.com . They are a very professional online retailer that specializes in John Deere equipment. I’ll definitely purchase additional John Deere products from them based on my customer service experiences so far. Regardless of the type you use, regular lawn aeration will help keep your lawn looking it’s best. Lawn Aerating Tips Check out my Lawn Aerating Tips post which talks about the most effective way to aerate lawns including a discussion about plug aerators vs spike aerators. Not all aerators are created equal! Also, if you’re looking to purchase a plug aerator you can buy the John Deere model I own, John Deere Tow Behind Plug Aerator over at Rungreen.com . There are cheaper models available from other manufactures at Amazon, Agri-Fab 40-Inch Plug Aerator or Precision Products 42-Inch Plug Aerator . &amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;A HREF=”http://ws.amazon.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;MarketPlace=US&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;ID=V200708222Fhomeconstimpr-202F9af8c818-332d-46fe-93ff-a6d283af0eb6&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;Operation=NoScript” mce_HREF=”http://ws.amazon.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;MarketPlace=US&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;ID=V200708222Fhomeconstimpr-202F9af8c818-332d-46fe-93ff-a6d283af0eb6&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;Operation=NoScript”&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;Amazon.com Widgets&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/A&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt; Tags: home improvement , home improvement blog , John Deere Plug Aerator Subscribers to Home Construction Improvement can download two FREE Spreadsheets: Stair Calculator Fuel BTU Calculator Lawn Core Aeration Readers who viewed this page, also viewed: Lawn Aerating Tips Related posts: John Deere 48-Inch Plug Aerator Review Lawn Aerating Tips John Deere Plug Aerator

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Lawn Core Aeration

Lawn Core Aeration

Sun, 13 Sep 2009 05:00:00 +0000

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Lawn Core Aeration

How To Install Simple Window Casing

Sat, 12 Sep 2009 16:11:34 +0000

Butt and Pass Window Trim Trimming out a window can be quite simple if you stick to the basics. The simplest window casing consists of flat stock trim with butted corners (butt and pass). Butted window casing works great and eliminates the dreaded “opened” miter joints that are famous with more elaborate miter joints. The Butt and Pass method involves butted joints between the top and bottom pieces with the side pieces as shown in the photo. This type of joint will have almost no opening effect due to changes in temperature and humidity unlike miter joints. If you’re interested in learning why miter joints open up then you should read: What Causes Miter Joint Shrinkage . Measuring & Laying Out Trim Laying out this type of trim is really easy. For this example I used 3-1/2 inch wide flat stock trim (1×4). Also, the window measures 38-1/2 inch wide and 59-3/4 inch tall (these dimensions are to the outside of the extension jambs). Typically I like to leave a 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch reveal from the inside edge of the extension jamb to the inside edge of the trim (casing). Calculating the length of the trim pieces is easy now that we have all the dimensions. Once you calculate the lengths you can cut two horizontal pieces and two vertical pieces for each window. Vertical Trim Pieces = height of window (-) 2 (x) 1/4″ = 59-3/4 inches minus 2 times 1/4 inch = 59-1/4 inches . Horizontal Trim Pieces = width of window (+) 2 (x) width of trim (-) 2 (x) 1/4″ = 38-1/2 inches plus 2 times 3-1/2 inches minus 2 times 1/4 inch = 45 inches . Install Head Trim First Now that you’ve cut all the pieces to length you need to install the head piece first. Make a mark on the left and right sides of the extension jambs 1/4 inch up from the inside edge. This marks the reveal and helps you line it up before you nail it. Also put a mark where the ends of the head trim go. For my trim the mark will be 3-1/2 inches minus 1/4 inch or 3-1/4 inches from the outside edge of the extension jambs (see photo). Center the head piece above the window with the bottom edge on the marks you just made, nail it in place with two nails until the remaining trim is installed. Install Two Side Pieces Of Trim Now you can install the two vertical side pieces of trim. Start at the top and align the outside of the trim with the end of the head trim. Nail the top and work down the piece maintaining the 1/4 inch reveal as you go. I only nail half way down the piece until after the bottom piece is installed. Install the Bottom Piece Of Trim Now you can install the bottom piece of trim. The trim should butt up tight against the wide pieces. You can also adjust the side pieces to line up flush with the ends of the bottom piece. Now nail all the trim every 12 inches. Simple Trim Is Sometimes The Best Trim It’s taken me several years to realize that simple trim is sometimes the best. For this project I was simply trimming out windows in my garage so the application was definitely applicable. However, I’ve seen simple flat trim like this work wonderfully in very beautiful homes. The best part is it’s inexpensive, it looks nice and it performs very well. Subscribers to Home Construction Improvement can download two FREE Spreadsheets: Stair Calculator Fuel BTU Calculator How To Install Simple Window Casing Readers who viewed this page, also viewed: Miter Joint Shrinkage Explanation Colonial Style Fluted Window & Door Trim Related posts: Colonial Style Fluted Window & Door Trim Miter Joint Shrinkage Explanation How To Trim Pocket Door Jambs

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How To Install Simple Window Casing

Master Bedroom Makeover

Fri, 11 Sep 2009 05:00:36 +0000

Master Bedroom Makeover Our new home is about four years old so you might wonder why I’m writing about a Master Bedroom Makeover . We’ve spent the last couple of years buying furniture for the kids rooms and other family rooms. This meant living with our old furniture that my wife had before we got married. Well it was finally time to makeover our plain drab looking bedroom. In addition to buying new bedroom furniture the makeover included painting an accent wall , new curtains, new artwork and even a new Panasonic LCD HDTV ! Our master bedroom suite is rather large and features his and her closets, a private bathroom and a walk-in closet . Because we have so much closet space we really only needed night stands and some type of dresser for the TV. We ended up upgrading to a king size bed and buying two night stands and a media center that’s specifically designed for bedroom TV’s and components. Accent Wall Bedroom accent walls are very popular today because they create a focal point that breaks up the space nicely. We chose the accent color from the new bedding that we purchased from L.L.Bean . Typically, accent walls are painted a vibrant color with lots of contrast to the remaining walls that are typically a more neutral color. In our case we chose “Sport Blue” by Sherwin Williams. We are very happy with the results of the accent wall and the dramatic impact it has to the overall look of the room. Even if you’re not buying all new furniture an accent wall can be an easy DIY project that creates a whole new look for your room! Media Center Most furniture manufacturers are now selling bedroom furniture designed to accommodate today’s new technologies including flat screen TV’s, cable boxes and other media electronics. In fact, the media center we purchased included a built-in surge protector and cable connections. The new media center is great because it neatly hides all of the electronics and also keeps them out of prying hands (baby’s). Before & After Makeover The following pictures document the dramatic change our master bedroom has undergone with some simple changes. Bedroom Furniture and Accent Wall Media Center and Artwork As you can see there’s a dramatic change in the appearance of our master bedroom. Next time you want to renovate a bedroom consider adding an accent wall. Subscribers to Home Construction Improvement can download two FREE Spreadsheets: Stair Calculator Fuel BTU Calculator Master Bedroom Makeover Related posts: Master Bedroom Makeover Coming! Accent Walls For Bedrooms Painting | Walk-In Closet

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How To Install Replacement Windows

Wed, 09 Sep 2009 19:29:11 +0000

Installing Replacement Windows Installing replacement windows is a great DIY project that can help you save thousands of dollars on energy bills over the life of the windows. Replacement window manufacturers have perfected the design of replacement windows so that anyone with moderate do-it-yourself skills can easily install them. I recently helped my dad replace five old wood windows with new Harvey Tribute Triple Pane energy efficient replacement windows. The entire project took about five hours from start to finish and cost under $1,500. The new windows are more than 40% more energy efficient and likely to pay for themselves in several years or less. I recommend you read my previous article on How To Measure For Replacement Windows if you’re thinking about installing some replacement windows yourself. Steps To Install Replacement Windows The following basic installations steps apply to most window replacements. However, there are always some variations depending on the type of existing window. I recommend you check with the replacement window manufacturer for specific installation instructions. Step 1 – Remove Window Casing and Inside Stops The first step to install a replacement window is to remove the window casing from the sides and top of the window. You’ll also need to remove the inside stops from the sides and top of the window (see photo and diagram below). Be sure to remove the stops and casing carefully if you plan to re-use them after the new replacement windows are installed. Step 2 – Remove Parting Stop or Jamb Liner The next step involves either removing the wood parting stops (see photo and diagram above) or an aluminum or plastic jamb liner (see photo below). Older windows usually have the parting stops along with counter-weight balances. Older replacement windows typically have the plastic or aluminum jamb liners as shown below. At this point you need to be sure the depth from the inside of the blind stop and interior stop are a minimum of 3-1/4 inches (this is a very standard dimension and should not be an issue). Step 3 – Check The Existing Sill For Level Check the window sill to be sure it’s level. If it’s out of level then you need to shim it before installing the new replacment windows. Step 4 – Test Replacement Window Fit & Sill Expander Most replacment windows come with some sort of adjustable sill expander or sill angle. For our project the Harvey Windows came with an adjustable sill expander shown in the adjacent photo. The sill expander just clips onto the bottom flange of the window unit. The adjustable sill expander fills the space from the bottom of the replacement window unit to the top of the sloping sill. If you’re windows have flat sills then you can remove and discard the sill expander. Before you install the sill expander on the window be sure to hold it in the window opening and mark it so it can be trimmed around the blind stops. You can easily trim the sill expander with a utility knife or hack saw. At this point you should install the replacement window from inside the house into the window opening. The unit should fit up against the exterior blind stops which keep it from falling “out” towards the outdoors. This step is much easier with two people, one person can hold the window in place while the other person checks the fit and gaps around the opening. You may need to shim the window up somewhat in order to adjust the height of the sill expander. Step 5 – Insulate Sill and Header Staple some fiberglass insulation to the old sill. This will help insulate the space between the old sloping sill and the new replacement window. Most replacement windows also come with an adjustable header to fill the top space. The adjustable header should also be filled with insulation. Step 6 – Caulk Blind Stops At this point you’re just about ready to install the new replacement window. Run a heavy bead of caulking on the inside of the blind stops, be sure to do the sides and top. When you install the replacement window it will come in contact with the caulking to create a weather tight seal. Step 7 – Install Replacement Window Set the bottom of the replacement window in the opening and tilt up the window until the window comes in contact with the caulking on the blind stops. Be sure to center the window and check it for level and plumb. Once the window is plumb and square you can install the factory supplied screws through the new replacement window jambs into the old wood jambs. Most replacement windows come with pre-drilled holes to screw through. Be careful not to over-tighten the screws as you can damage the window and also cause it to operate poorly. Step 8 – Insulate Between New Window and Old Jambs Now you need to insulate between the new replacement window unit and the old window jambs. I really don’t recommend using spray foam from a can (even the low expansion kind) for this task. Replacement windows are just too sensitive to movement, if the foam expands too much the window will not operate correctly. Instead, insulate the space with fiberglass insulation, with the help of a putty knife to push it into tight spaces. After you insulate with fiberglass you can seal the cracks with caulking for a better air seal. Step 9 – Re-Install Interior Stops & Casing Now you can re-install the old interior stops (if they still work, in our case we needed to make new ones because of the difference in window sizes) or install new ones. The interior stops also help hold the window in place. After the interior stops are installed you can re-install the old casing or add new casing. For our project we were able to save the old casing and re-install it. Also note that we never removed the window stool or apron for this project. Replacement windows almost never require you to remove the old stool or apron. Finally you should caulk the gaps between the stops and casing to create a good air seal. Step 10 – Caulk Exterior Edges Finally you should caulk all of the exterior edges of the new replacement window unit where it meets the existing window opening. This helps create a better air seal and also helps keep out wind driven rain. Final Thoughts On Installing Replacement Windows As I said earlier installing replacement windows is a project that most DIY (do-it-yourself) folks can handle. It takes between 1 hour and 2 hours to completely install a replacement window. By doing it yourself you can save between $200 and $400 per window! Combine that with the huge Stimulus Tax Rebates For Windows and this is a project that will pay you back very quickly. Subscribers to Home Construction Improvement can download two FREE Spreadsheets: Stair Calculator Fuel BTU Calculator How To Install Replacement Windows Related posts: How To Measure For Replacement Windows Replacement Windows Selecting Replacement Windows

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How To Install Replacement Windows